I am sorry I don't have a newly painted bracket to show. This is the one I use and it has been used many times. It is widely traveled and has endured much. I will repaint it someday. I kind of like it, tattered and worn with age. I wonder why?
There are a couple of things to note from this close up. I have placed a small piece of plastic small engine gas line around the trigger on the Scott Little Goose. It seemed to me that it would give the metal tip of the photo shutter cable something a little more "gripable" to push on. The trigger is not very large in diameter. I had no trouble with this but thought it a good idea to prevent any. You probably know, or will find out, that it takes quite a little push to trigger a release that is holding a bow string exerting 60 to 70 lbs of pressure. It is a good thing that it takes quite a firm bite on the clip to release the arrow. I have had no problem with unintended releases. All gun safety rules still apply. I never point the arrow in any direction that could cause anyone or anything to be shot accidentally. Arrows can go a long way. Please don't forget that!
Note from the closeup that I have placed a piece of plastic gas line tubing around the shutter cable near where it attached to the aluminum bracket. This was placed there to prevent the cable from taking a very acute angle. I thought that the cable may wear out faster if it bent acutely. That also might cause some slight bind of the cable in the sheave. I have used tubing at both ends of the cable. At one end I had some trouble keeping the tubing in place and used a piece of string and a dot of glue to keep it from coming loose. It works very well.
The aluminum bracket may be a little bit more difficult for the average person to build. Mine is made from a fairly hard piece of aluminum taken from the seat of a Warren and Sweat climbing stand. I installed a softer seat for old folks and had the bar left. I cut the bracket with my scroll saw. I used Olson metal blades. The bracket could be made with a drill and hacksaw. A small Dremel tool would be handy. I also build a bracket of very hard wood. I worked for some time. Aluminum is better. I have settled on the Little Goose for me. Please note that I also used other releases. They were fine. I selected the Little Goose because it is very short. I needed that in my first release to get more draw length. With the way I pull the release now that is not a problem. Other releases may work as well. I have used square releases. The hole in the bracket is simply square to fit the release. The diameter of the Little Goose is 1/2 inch. The hole for the release is drilled in the bracket material along with a smaller hole for the shutter release. The hole for the clamping bolt must be drilled with much care. It is tricky to drill a hole the thin way through this material. The aluminum is clamped on it's edge against a square surface. A drill press with a good vise on it's table is the proper way to do it. You can clamp the bracket material to a squared piece of wood that is clamped down. You should no attempt to drill while holding the material. Any slight angle will cause the material to be ruined. That is not to mention the violation of basic tool use rules and the danger of hurting yourself.
I have shown here a good close up of the release that I am shooting with at the present. I have built a small square tube to hold the thumb plunger of the release to the clip and yet to allow the cable to swivel. If the cable is connected ridgidly to the clip binding will occure. On the bottom of the clip in the picture I have cut a curved surface. This allow the part of the cable that a photographer would normally hold between his point finger and second finger to move back and forth very freely. That is a nice touch. I works will.
I will say it again. At no point is the cable ridgidly attached to the release clip. That would cause a bind and a jerky release. Accurate shooting is all about a smooth release!
Please note from the pictures above that you have to saw out a portion of the bracket so that the jaws of the release do not hit the bracket on release. The Scott release is 1/2 inch in diameter. When the release is tripped the jaws swing out. I have cut out more than needed. You could file out the little square place behind the release head. I cut it with the scroll saw.
This is what I have done. I hope you can make improvements. Shooting is only part of archery. Deciding on equipment and developing your own style and devices can be more fun than actually shooting. A good part of what I do is educational. I like to prove that almost anything is possible if one uses the brain to solve problems. I hope you build a better device than I have. I would be very proud to hear about it!